Monday, August 2, 2021

Land: Making Our Own Path

 

The food in the area is scarce during the winter.   The first year we had two corn feeders and the cameras show the deer flocking to the area, but we had the feed interval low to stretch out the corn.   The second year one feeder was destroyed by the pigs and the other motor failed.  The corn feeders brought the deer to our land, but there wasn't enough to hold them there.   We need to make the food plot bigger and expand it to at least an acre or more.   We also wanted to put in a second plot on the other side of the property, but it was late in the season so we settle on making lanes from the plot deeper into the forest.


With four people we managed to clear two lanes about 20 feet long and 6 feet wide in 4 days.   The weather was hot and humid which made the work miserable and exhausting.  The heat index was over 105 every day.    We were so hot we spent the majority of the time drinking water.   It took a long time to fall trees and cut them into pieces the size of firewood so we could move to piles.   This wouldn't work in the future since most of the work would be done by just the two of us.   We realized that some kind of machine would be needed.   

Hauling Ass

The trucks we used as our daily driver were just not suited for hard work.   Our 1/4 ton trucks (5.7L RAM 1500) have served us well and able to pull the Jeep up the mountain to our land even where the slope reaches 20% in some places.     The problem is the trucks struggled on the slopes and the gas mileage was 50% lower than normal.   I was also concerned about the wear on the trucks.

We bought a used 3/4 ton long bed truck (6.7L RAM 2500) with a diesel engine.   We were lucky the truck came with a tool box and 93 gallon transfer tank.   This truck is able to pull the Jeep up the mountain easily and does it while getting 15 MPG.    We only use the truck for trips to the property or long drives.    Diesel trucks are expensive to operate.

Now we have to bring the smaller truck to tow the Jeep when we need the trailer for heavy loads or the tractor.   We feel like we should bring the Jeep at least until the roads are fixed.   

More Toys


 

We started looking at equipment to assist our work.   At first, I planned to use the Jeep to do most of the work.    I thought the wench and chains would be enough to move logs around and we could buy implements designed for UTVs.  Pulling logs around with the Jeep and chain proved difficult because the logs would dig into the ground and were limited where they could be put.     The implements didn't work well either.   Perhaps they would work in a home garden, but it wasn't practical on undeveloped land with rocky soil.    The UTV implements rely on leverage instead of weight to push the chisel down into the ground which means the chisels lift the rear of the Jeep up and just scraps the top of the ground most of the time. 

 

We decided on a Kubota LX2610 with a grapple, box blade, and seedbed roller.     We bought new because of the warranty and financing available at the time.  The tractor we picked is a midsize machine in their compact line running 25 HP.     The draw back of this model is that the PTO runs at 19HP which is not enough to drive many attachments.    The next model L3310 would have been a better choice with more attachments available and the ability to drive them.  The next model jumps in price and cost an additional $100 per month.  The L3310 also has a cab option which is really necessary when working in hot/cold weather.   We considered a skid steer but they are double the price.   It's hard to justify extra expense for something that has limited use.


The tractor is able to lift around 800lbs with the grapple.      My wife and I were able to clear ten times the area with half the people using the tractor.     The time saver was being able to fall trees and cut them into 8 foot logs instead of 12 inch pieces. The tractor can pick up multiple logs at once.   We plan on getting the tires filled which increases the weight of the machine by 800 lbs.   The extra weight is needed to counter lift and makes travel less rough.

The tractor has been worth the price.     If you buy a tractor then go for the biggest one you can afford.    What the tractor can do is only limited by its horsepower and weight.    Too much is always better.    If you are not able to buy a tractor then at least rent one for the land work.  A grease gun and extra grease is also needed.    Even when renting you are expected to lubricate the joints per the manufacturer's recommendation.    They do check.

Vacation Home

Everyone dreams of a weekend get away at a cabin secluded in the woods.  Until this point we had only been there hunting a few weeks of the year.    We tried to make some repairs and improvements to the camper but the years of neglect made it impossible, and the small size makes it uncomfortable even for two people.    The lack of showers and air conditioning makes summer stays impossible. 

Building a permanent cabin would be the best option.  There are many options for foundations but a concrete slab was the best option.    Pier systems will settle and lead to structural issues.   The isolation of the area makes any repairs difficult.    The first problem is getting concrete out to the site no matter what type of foundation is used.   Being able bring bags of concrete are limited by what we can carry out there.     We would need to transport over a ton of cargo in concrete and water just to make a 10X10 3in slab.   The hunting cabins out there are usually utility sheds on cinder blocks.

We met with a concrete company and they said they can deliver to the well pad near us but warned the truck weighs 50,000 lbs when loaded and if the ground is soft the truck would sink.  We would be responsible for the cost of getting the truck out. There's no way for us to guarantee the ground could support that weight.   It wouldn't be possible to pump the concrete because of the distance from the well pad to the build site. Most pumps can only go up to a few hundred feet and it creates additional concrete waste and cost.  I think the best option would be to use a dump trailer to transport the concrete the last quarter mile.  We will be charged by the minute over 45min so the trailer has to carry at least 2 yards so we can make less than 3 trips.   The plan is to fill the trailer from the truck, drive to site, dump, work it, and return in the 45 minutes.  The big truck would be needed to pull the trailer which means there must be enough extra space to maneuver.   First, we will need to clear an area for the cabin and improve the roads.

Search and Destroy

The camper is located is the center of our property which disrupts the entire area when we travel.  We cleared 3,600 squared feet at a new site near the north border.   Cutting down the trees left many stumps around the new cabin site which would prevent building.

The only experience I had for removing tree stumps was a grinder.   They do make grinders for tractors but the low horse power at our PTO means that the attachment can't be used.  We found a company near by that rents self propelled stump grinders.     


Unfortunately, grinding a stump is a slow process.    You can only grid a few inches per pass.  The speed and depth of each pass depends on the size and type of tree.   The big oak trees took forever to grid down.  The grinder also had trouble because the ground is filled with rocks of all shapes and sizes.   If you hit any rocks with the grinder teeth they are instantly dull or broken which means you must dig out the rocks out between passes.    The grinding leaves a lot of the tree in the ground.   The grinder was only able to remove the top 8 inches of the root system.   The left overs may attempt to regrow but I'm concerned it's rotting corpse will make the ground unstable.     I only rented the machine for a day and I was only able to grid 5 trees out of the 20 or so we cut down.  The progress was too slow and incomplete for the cost of the rent.  

Dig it


 

A field of buried, rotting trees would not work for a place where we need a stable foundation.   The next step was to rent an excavator to dig out the remaining stumps.      We rented an excavator and dug out the stumps over two days.  The small stumps could be pulled out in one motion.   I had to dig around the large stumps before pulling them up.     The trees that gave the most issue we pines.   Most trees have a small root ball 1-2 feet deep.  It seems for every 10 feet of height a pine adds a foot of root that is as wide as the trunk.   Pines are natures fence post.    They don't seem to develop this large root until around 30 years.    This means any pine over 18 inches would have to be dug out.


 

We were able to dig out all the remaining trees in two days.  We also removed the stumps we grinded.   We used the tractor to move the stumps to the sides and smooth out areas after the stump was removed.

The excavator was easy to learn to operate.    The main challenge is to synchronize your joystick motions so the arm smoothly scoops then deposits it to the side.     We also started digging a foundation where the cabin would be built.     The area was at a slope so the foundation had to be deep on one side.    This created another problem because the dirt is deposited at some point within the arm's reach.   The alternative is to drive to another spot to dump the load but that would cost extra time.    This will mean you have a pile of dirt that you will have to move again.     Our tractor had difficulty moving these piles due to the clay and rocks.

We aren't making progress like we had hoped.

Previous: Staking Our Claim
Next: A New Beginning

Monday, July 26, 2021

Land: Staking our claim

Previous: Dreaming of Personal Hunting Property
Next: Making Our Own Path

 

We settled on a secluded 80 acres tract at the end of a 13 mile oil/gas road on top of the Oklahoma mountains in SE part of the state.  The majority of the property is usable with wet weather creeks and a rolling topography.  The area has a maze of logging roads with most of them overgrown or damaged by erosion.   There's several natural gas wells in the area and the oil companies keep most of the roads in good shape.  The last half mile of road that crosses through a field from a well pad will be our responsibility.

The majority of the trees are pine and post oaks.    The land was logged in 1995 taking every tree over 8 inches except for the pine.  The pine trees quickly filled in gaps and many of the remaining hardwoods were stunted by fast growing pines shading them.  

The biggest issue with a secluded location is you must bring everything you need and include backups in case something runs out or breaks.     The consequences of ignoring this can be annoying or even life threatening.    A good example is our frequent use of a chainsaw which means I need tools to fix problems and extra parts.     If the chain breaks then I can't continue working until I find a store that carries a compatible chain.  This is a big problem because the surrounding small towns have a limited selection.   If the truck breaks down or even a flat tire then I better have food, water, and shelter available until the truck can be repaired. The first rule is always have a plan A and plan B.

Neglected 


 

The last owner had not been to the area for at least a two decades and was still reluctant to sell the land due to protest from his kids.    He left a small food plot and a truck camper built in 1963 that had been there for at least 30 years.    The camper has heavy water damage and bullet holes.    

He told us that he found a marijuana field during the mid 1990's while scouting.     He reported the location to law enforcement and the growers shot up the camper for revenge.  He had fixed most of the broken glass but the appliances were beyond repair.    A hail storm damaged the roof vents which allowed water to leak in during the years of his absence.      The majority of the wood in the roof and over hang was rotting.    A friend of his attempted to make repairs to the camper more than 10 years ago.   He placed supports under the overhand and a tarp to cover the leaking roof vents.   There was evidence of multiple failed attempts to fix the water leaks.   He had replaced most of the interior panels but failed to replace the wooden frame of the camper.   

The window screens were old and would tear with a slight touch which only left one window that could be opened without an army of insects invading.    The interior curtains were in the same state as the fabric and tore like tissue paper.  We filled all the gaps with foam and attempted to replace the roof vents which failed because of structural issues.   We also attempted to replace damaged wood in the frame but this caused more issues since frame was made from 1X1 studs with metal panels nailed to them.  Removing the rotten wood damaged the outside panels and the entire frame was in various states of decay.   We decided repairing the camper would not be possible.   This would also be difficult to complete since we have to bring everything with us and a 40 minute trip to get materials.  We would need to find something else then dispose of the old camper.

Off Roading

We have a 4x4 truck but didn't want to take our only mode of transportation down questionable or non-existent roads. This was due to having a flat from lose rocks on a previous trip where it was our only transportation and forced us to stay over night.

We looked at getting a ATV/UTV, like a Razor, that could be used to get around the property.  Having an additional vehicle would serve as a back up in case something broke down. It's much easier to throw a tire in the back for the 40 minute trip to town rather than hiking while rolling it through the hills.



We bought a used (1991) Jeep Wrangler.  We chose a Jeep because they are easy to work on and cheap to repair.   Jeeps have a strong social following which means there are endless aftermarket options.   (Winch, light bars, etc.)   Our Jeep has high ground clearance with aggressive mud tires.   It's versatile enough to pull a light trailer and drag plows.  It is also street legal with a good size fuel tank and storage space.     It's easy to tow since many people flat tow them behind RVs.    Buy a tow bar and you can tow it anywhere.     (Check local regulations)

I wired permanent tow lights by adding side markers and brake. The straight 6 gas engine provide a lot of power for it's body size.  It has never gotten stuck and has been able to go over any type of terrain.   I'm not saying it would go through an obstacle course but everything we bring out to the property must be practical due to the cost.

NOTE: "Flat tow" simply means the Jeep is not on a trailer and rolls on it's own tires.    This is done by putting the transmission in 5th gear and the transfer case in neutral.    The transmission should be kept in gear to keep the transmission from turning without oil during transportation.   (The oil pump is on the input shaft of the transmission which means the transmission won't be lubricated unless the engine is running.   Towing while the transmission is neutral will wear out the transmission.)   The transfer case is set to neutral so the tires spin freely.  (The transfer case oil pump is on the output shaft so it will lubricate anytime the wheels are turning.)

Home Sweet Home

We have spent several nights in the camper despite its current state.   The thought of the overhang collapsing was constantly in the back of my mine but at this point we have little choice.  We brought freeze dried food and bottled water.  We use a camping toilet with a pop up tent.  We have a propane camping stove and lantern.    During the cold months we use a Mr. Heater which was enough to keep the camper warm and wake up hibernating wasp.  It would run on the low setting for at least 8 hours with a 1 lbs propane bottle.   It's cheaper to get a large propane tank and refill the 1 lbs bottle using an adapter. (Use at your own risk)   You can refill a 20lbs propane bottle $20 while a new 1lbs cost $10.  You need forceps to pull up on the vent to refill the bottle to the top.    If it sticks open then quickly pull it up again and release.   The heater used the most propane going through 15lbs of propane in a week.

I was paranoid about leaving the heater running during the night even though the heater says it is "indoor safe".   Running the heater fills the camper with a smell of burning propane and fogs the windows.  I always have an alarm for CO2 and propane and the alarm never went off while using the heater.  We still turned off the heater  before going to sleep.   Another important lesson is to look at the rating of your sleeping bag to make sure it will handle the temperatures.    A 32F rated sleeping bag is worthless when the temperature drops below freezing and leads to sleepless nights hugging the heater to stay warm.

I would say we were lucky to have the camper since the only alternative at the time was to pitch a tent. We didn't really consider this when we first got started on the land.   None of the other properties we looked at had any kind of shelter.

The Hunt

We set up tree stands at various spots and have pop up blinds for every where else.  We wake up in the early morning and walk to the stand for the hunt often staying all day in the field.  Staying out there was a shock because living in the city makes you forget how beautiful the night sky is.  The area is dead quiet at night with the occasional coyote. 

We set up game cameras where there was any evidence of deer.    The best camera we found for the price is StealthCam.    The cheaper cameras were unreliable and filled the memory cards within a week with thousands of pictures of leaves fluttering in the wind.

We use Energizer Lithium batteries which last eight months or more.   The cameras will reset their date/time when the batteries get weak even though they continue taking pictures.  Every time we go to the property we check the cameras and reposition them if they aren't getting a lot of deer traffic. When checking the cameras, I check a couple of the batteries (out of 8) and replace the memory card replacing with a blank card.  I have a portable viewer but most of the time I review the pictures at home.

Herd

The cameras indicated deer are moving in the area.  It appears there is very little hunting pressure in the area.  Most deer prefer to move along the edges.   This could be the edge between the trees and a grassland or even the edge between rows of different tree species.  The easy path you would take through the woods is often the same choice the deer make unless they are panicked.    They don't like low branches hitting their heads or thorns any more than you.  I have see a couple solitary does travel though the thickest parts of the forest and even come close to us.


 

The ground is hard and tracks aren't visible unless the ground is wet.    Tracking the deer through the woods is difficult.    We saw very little signs of deer even when regular travel is shown on the camera.  In fact, most of our cameras are places by educated guesses.   It random chance to see any deer even though the cameras indicated our presence didn't change their behavior. 

Dinner Time

We realized that the deer were only traveling though our land.   We don't have a reliable food or water sources giving them little reason to stay.    We do have some creeks but they are lower than the surrounding area and deer won't go into places where they can't watch for approaching predators.  This means that any encounter with a deer is by chance alone and backed by over a year of pictures from the game cameras.

 



We tried to provide food with corn feeders but deer would knock them over and wild pigs would destroy them even when strapped to a tree. This means we need to put in food plots since wild pigs don't see to bother with live plots.   The cameras never found the pigs in the planted food plot but they would also come within a week of refilling the corn feeders.   They must really like corn.

The food plot (20FT Squared) was small but we planted it in the second year.   First, we would take soil samples then spray the area with RoundUp.   We added a fertilizer and lime to the ground as indicated by the soil test.   Two weeks later we dragged a cultipacker to flatten the dead plants then put out seeds.     The plot was completely green when we returned for hunting two months later despite several cold snaps.     The food plot is too small as the deer had ate the plants down to where only about an inch of growth could be seen.    It was such a clean cut that the most attentive golf course manager would be proud to play there.   At least the seeds germinated well and were a hit with local wild life.

The following spring the food plots were ignored by the deer leaving the grains and clover to overgrow.   I suspect this is because the forest is filled with food sources during the warm months.   Most of what I've read says this isn't a big problem because providing food year round will lead to many does since does tend to stay in the same general area and push bucks out.

No Trespassing


 

Trespassers will be an issue every where despite posting signs on the major access points.    We have been fortunate that we have had few trespassers and little was stolen.    The only thing we know was stolen was the memory cards of a couple cameras obviously to conceal their identity.  They didn't see all the cameras and we got pictures of the same people moving though our land.    I assume they were exploring or didn't know there was new owners that were active since they haven't been seen since.      We reported them to the local sheriff's department.    The sheriff department was helpful as they take trespassing seriously especially with fields of expensive oil equipment.

If the problem get worse we would consider installing a fence or blocking the road.  Often these roads are the only way to get around the area and blocking a road could prevent people from reaching their land on the other side.  I'm sure these people own property nearby but I have not received responses to any of my attempts at contact them and arrange access.

The last step we can take to contact them is to review the plot book at the county courthouse.   We have been so busy with other task that we haven't taken the time to do this.   We also need to explore the network of logging roads to see what's around us and possible alternative routes out.

Going through Changes

It seemed obvious that we need to make changes to the land to get deer to come and stay on our property.   We read information from many authors include Whitetail Solutions.    (Their site seems to be one of the better ones with lots of free material. )   

We also contacted the local forestry department for recommendations.    Our local department did a complete evaluation indicating the tree species and animals.  Their biggest advice was to hire someone to perform controlled burns to remove debris from the forest floor.   This is definitely something I would not do myself.   They also recommended adding food sources and clearing trails through the heavily wooded areas.

We need to make improvements for our comfort as well.   The camper is uncomfortable to stay in for more than a few days and the deer treat our land as a highway.    Adding some modern comforts would make our hunt more enjoyable and adding a convenience store on the deer highway would encourage them to spend more time on our property which would make a successful hunt more likely.

Most of our neighbors don't seem to use their land for any purpose with the closest hunting cabin being 4 miles north of us.  A large portion of the land to our north is used by a company as a natural stone supply.  Any improvements we make should draw deer from the entire area.


Previous: Dreaming of Personal Hunting Property
Next: Making Our Own Path

Wednesday, July 21, 2021

Land: Dreaming of Hunting Property

Next: Staking our Claim

Two years ago my wife and I decided to buy land for hunting and recreation.  She wanted to learn how to hunt and I wanted a place of my own.   I didn't have good experiences with leasing, hunting clubs, or public land.   I will explain what we did and lessons learned during our journey.    This is not a cheap hobby to do and will require large investments of time and money.

Location, Location

We found many listings online.  Primarily, we used this site.  We decided early on the land must be secluded with a minimum of 80 acres.  It must also have good roads leading to the property knowing we would need to bring the bigger trucks through to carry supplies and equipment.  We also needed towns nearby for equipment and supplies.

Seclusion is an easy feature since the price per acre goes up quickly the closer you are to a major city or tourist spots nears lakes or parks.    All the properties we looked at were undeveloped (no roads or buildings) and several hours away from our home in the city.

Exploring

Never buy without seeing the property first.    I know this sounds like common sense but we know of many people who paid a premium without visiting the area.  Some of them hold onto the land for decades and never visit it.    One such property had a steep hill on one side and deep creek on the other with no roads or utility access.    The owners swore their retired kids would build a house there one day.

We found many properties that seemed good in pictures but while walking the property we found large parts were unusable or difficult to access.     For example, one property we looked at was a valley between two large hills.     The hills we steep and impossible to drive down and there was no place to even put a tent.   These types of properties can be improved but at a huge cost.  

I think most local agents are willing to take you on a tours.   Our guy, Chuck, loved driving out to remote areas and willing to go down questionable roads.   He was a little too eager as we got stuck in a pool of mud the consistency of peanut butter. 

Be sure to visit the properties several times before signing a contract. It is best if you can visit the area during different seasons or several months apart.    I know the thrill of finding a property only to have someone come in on a cash buy.  We visited a property that seemed perfect at first.      We went out for a second look and discovered the roads were being maintained by a logging company during the first visit.    They had completed their work by our second trip and the roads were left to their natural state which meant they were subject to heavy flooding and erosion. The roads are only passable for the the toughest off-road vehicles most of the time. 

Observe as much as you can.   Keep note of equipment in the area which might indicate logging or other activities.     The existence of permanent equipment for oil/gas production maybe a good thing since the company will maintain basic roads.    We constantly looked for signs of humans in the areas.   Trash, harvested animals, and camp sites could be signs someone has been in the area.     The existence of people in the area could mean theft would be an issue if you leave supplies and equipment on the property.  Pouching was a problem at one as indicated by deer skeletons all over which at least means trespassers could ruin your hunt.

Be Prepared

First, I would recommend learning basic survival and putting together supplies when you go out. You should also have a backup when things go wrong.   This will not be news to experienced hikers or hunters. Things will always go wrong and you should have a backup plan for most scenarios by meeting your basic needs while you hike out or wait for rescue.  Of course, let someone know where you will be and when you plan to be back.   Keep an eye on the weather forecast and take a GPS since getting lost in the woods is easy.  My basic kit is a backpack with water bottles, filter straw, rope, knife, first aid kit, machete, emergency blanket, flint stone, weather radio, duct tape, snacks, and GPS unit.  I carry this even while hunting.  If the location is remote then you probably won't have cell service and you need the minimum supplies to be able to survive a couple of days..

Secondly, you should have at least one change of clothes with several pairs of socks.  This will be the best gear you have when caught in the rain or step in a puddle.  Make sure you have a spare tire with tools and a few pieces of lumber.   (The lumber is for placing the jack on in case you have to change a tire on soft ground. )

During one of our trips, loose rocks broke the bead on the front tire (it came off the rim) and I spent the next two hours trying to change a tire on ground as firm as a wet sponge.  I recommend being prepared to spend the night as well.     

 


On the trip I mentioned, the sudden rain storm flooded a bridge on the only access road.   The water was over a foot high in the center and moving rapidly.  We spent the night in the truck in wet clothes with no blanket till the next morning when the water receded.   It only takes a random rainstorm or flat tire to spell trouble.

Ready to Buy

If you need a loan to buy the land then a big question will be legal easement.  Banks will not loan on undeveloped land without easement.  Easement is legal authority to use a portion of someone's land for a specific purposes.   The easement can be for roads or utilities and is documented with the property deed.    You can approach your neighbors to establish easement, but they may not be willing or hard to contact.   Many of the surrounding properties we looked at are owned by a trust and attempts to contact someone was met with silence.  Most of the contact information is available online through county property tax records.   The court house also has a "plot book" with contact information of the land owners.   

Without easement, the landowner could install a locked gate blocking access to your land even though the road maybe well traveled.   Roads used by oil/gas companies have easement for their purpose and that doesn't transfer to you.   In Oklahoma, landowners can go through the courts to force easement for access (Check your local laws).  This is expensive and time consuming and it's best to keep good relations with your neighbors.

Roughing it

You should decide if things like electricity or water are important to you.     Establishing electric service in an area can be cost prohibitive.     You must obtain easement from every property you need to cross and the land must be cleared so the utility can install polls and wires.   I got a quote from an electric company for $30,000 to install service over a mile that did not including establishing easement or clearing a 20 ft wide path.   The alternative is to use a generator, solar, batteries, or wind.   

Water is an important resource that is difficult to bring in large quantities.    Water weight 8.3lbs per gallon which means a light duty truck (1/4 Ton) can only carry a maximum of 60 gallons.  Realistically, you can't carry the max because you will need to bring other things and a heavy load may not be practical on poor road conditions.   Your needs will depend on what you need while there: drinking, cooking, and showers.

 

Next: Staking our Claim


Monday, May 18, 2020

Last Shelter: Players Guide - Dooms Day

Last Shelter: Players Guide - Events

 

  Last Shelter Guides:

The DD event adds occupying plots and cross state alliance duels.  You will be purchasing a lot of stone from the alliance store so be sure to keep the technology donations going.  The alliance members must donate stone to the buildings so the alliance centers can be built.  Every alliance member should collect as many stones as possible leading up to the event.   Each member will need to contribute at least 15K stones to be able to build all 4 alliance centers.  This done through buildings in the alliance menu.   The donate button at the top.  Hopefully, you will have enough stone to place all the alliance buildings as soon as the event starts.

Purchasing the doomsday investment benefit gives you boost of composite materials, bonus tickets, and one free specialty reset per week.

Stone Requirements:
  • Alliance Center 1 - 1,000 Stones 
  • Alliance Center 2 - 200,000 Stones 
  • Alliance Center 3 - 400,000 Stones  
  • Alliance Center 4 - 800,000 Stones
You can demolish an alliance center any time outside of a duel.    You recover 50% of the stones needed to build the alliance center and all honor buildings are recalled.

Event Concept


The concept is to occupy tiles working toward resources and abandon low level plots for higher ones.   You can only occupy adjacent tiles occupied by your alliance or next to honor structures.  You must take at least one tile at each level, similar to zombies.  Always work in the direction of higher level tiles.   The first war can be declared a week after the start of the event.  You should leave 5 - 10 tiles open in both your and foreign state to be used during DD wars.

Occupying a tile cost 10 durability and receives season points based on the level.  Fighters are the slowest units but they are the cheapest to heal and provide the most destructive power.   The destructive power is important when taking occupied tiles from someone.   Occupied tiles have 500 durability and an all fighter APC can take the tile with one hit.  

The immunity of a tile is based on your virus lab levels and specialty point allocation.      If this is greater than zero then your troops will get infected by the percentage given and require healing.    It is best to only hit tiles with a 0% and work on upgrading your virus labs.    The immunity percentage will decrease your troop power and if the remaining troops fall blow the guardian power then you will fail to occupy the tile.   It should also be noted that the guardian power increases in later season of doomsday.   The difference between season 1 guardian power and season 2 is ten fold.    You can garrison tiles occupied by your alliance.    This increases the guardian power of the tile.

  • White tiles are occupied by another alliance in your state.   
  • Blue tiles are occupied by your alliance.   
  • Green tiles are occupied by you.
  • Purple tiles are occupied by another state.

Resources in occupied territory provide contaminated resources that must be harvested at least once a day.   Processed resources are added to your warehouses.    Save your APC durability to use on occupying tiles and war. How much you harvest and influence is determined by how many resource tiles you occupy and the level of those tiles.   The amount of cash you get is based on your influence rank in your state.

The Adjudicator is also available on the map for rallies likes you do for Wendels.   You can rally one Wendel and one Adjudicator every day.    The Adjudicator rewards are specific to the Dooms Day event.

You can reset your specialty to blue to the left related to immunity boost to allow you to take higher tiles than your immunity lab levels allow alone.

Honor Structures


Once you reach a resource tile, abandon lower level or empty tiles and repeat.      You must upgrade your immunity labs to get higher level tiles and the processing plant to increase the capacity and processing speed.  You will need composite material to upgrade the processing plant which is gained from processing fuel and mineral.   Virus samples are used to upgrade the virus lab which come from processing water, food, and wood.  You get a set of honor structures for each of the four alliance centers.   There's four buildings placed at the alliance center 1 (Processing Plant, Virus Research Lab, Guardian Fortress, and Special Operations [Assault Fortress])   The other alliance centers have two buildings: Processing Plant and Virus Research Lab.   

You can place additional fortresses by unlocking them in the specialties.   Once these buildings are placed you can reset your specialty.     The fortress buildings are important.     The garrison fortress will increase your APC resistance in taking tiles and defending buildings.    The assault fortress will increase your APC might.   The more fortress you place and the higher the level the less infected troops you will have from taking tiles.    They will also boost your power when garrison buildings or tiles.

Buildings require stone to be placed on the map.   The stone cost increases for each alliance center and by the distance away from the alliance center.    They can only be placed next to other buildings, but they can be moved once placed.   (Tap on building, then View and relocate)     The building will need to be repaired if it is moved and can't be moved again until it has been repaired.

The first step is to upgrade your processing plants as quickly as possible.    These buildings are cheaper to upgrade and will allow you to process the resources quicker to get the large amount of virus samples you will need to upgrade your virus labs.  You will accumulate honor points and stone for taking tiles.  Honor points are used to open buffs under specialty.    I usually work on buffs under Construction specialty only related to processing speed and additional processing queues.    The more resources you can process the faster you can upgrade your honor structures.  However, you can reset these specialties to focus on other task.

Strategy


A week after the DD start there will be an option for declaring war on another alliance.   The target can be an alliance in another state or in your home state.   You can only select specific alliances that are 5 ranks below or above you.  Once war is declared and executed there is a cool down period of 20 hours.   The duel time is controlled by the truce timer set by the R5/R4.  The times are reset, reset + 8 hours, and reset + 16 hours.  You can only change the truce timer once every 7 days.   The other option is the "Find Opponent" button   This will select the first available alliance open for a duel.    This can be devastating to small alliance because it allows high ranking alliances to declare on smaller alliances.

If your alliance is not powerful then you should declare on an alliance quickly to avoid a larger alliance declaring on you.  By power, I'm referring to how many of your players have T9 troops. Many alliances are willing to deals on duels where one alliance will win to exchange points without major damage to buildings.  

The goal of war is to occupy enemy territory and destroying buildings during a duel.  You will get a bonus for destroying the enemy alliance center.    The event is based on points earned for those actions with more points awarded for higher level tiles and buildings.   A bonus is given for taking each enemy alliance center.  The most difficult task is to coordinate your members.

Each alliance is given a limited number of DoomsDay missiles.   DD missiles can not be intercepted by anti-missiles and instantly zero any base.    These should be used sparingly and only to turn the tide of the duel.   If you have an arranged duel then the missiles can be used against any base adjacent to your tiles.

Unfortunately, once the enemy is at the honor structures around the alliance center the chances of loss is almost certain.   Your only defense is to garrison buildings and try to remove their connecting tiles before they destroy the building.   Losing the war becomes greater the closer to the alliance center they get.  At this point, it becomes a race for points and this is where most of the individual losses occur due to garrisoning the honor structures and alliance center.    The highest rank alliances are often the ones with the greatest amount of participation and not the power of their members.


The best strategy is to keep them away from the alliance center as long as possible.   I recommend avoiding a direct confrontation with their troops unless you are certain your members are more powerful than theirs.

Most alliances favor building their alliance center in a corner of the map.   Generally, alliances put everything into protecting their first alliance center and neglect the others.   The reason for this is the enemy must take your AC1 first before they can place rally points close to your other alliance centers.    Often, alliances will tile in your state to get close to your undefended ACs to set up an easy win for their next duel.

The first transport to a rally point is free during the duel and are limited to the area around the rally point so it doesn't matter where the alliance centers are on the map. (Transports are not free if you duel an alliance within your home state.)  A solid defense strategy and member participation is more important than location.    If you are not integrating the defenses of your alliance centers by placing them as close together as possible then make sure they are randomly distributed on the map.   Often it is easy to find alliance centers because they build #1 in the corner and the others are built in a straight line between #1 and the launch center.

During the war, everyone should be attacking enemy occupied territory and repairing damaged honor structures.   Any members who can't participate in the duel should concentrate in taking back all enemy occupied territory after duel.    All enemy tiles should be cleared from your state so that state members have plenty of tiles for their use and the tiles can't be used in later duels to attack undefended alliance centers.


There are several specialties in the red (combat) that are useful for destroying and defending buildings.    

Specialty Points


The specialty points you use depends on what your goals are.     There are three main branches that I personally use on a regular basis.   I focus on these specialties because resets cost money.   You get a free weekly reset with the DoomsDay investment.   Additional weekly resets cost $10.    If you need more resets then you must buy a legendary pack at $99.

Immunity: (Left side of Construction) This gives you a boost to your immunity level additional to the immunity labs.   The lower branch increases healing speed and lowers healing cost.


Processing Queues:   (Right side of Construction) This specialty will give you additional processing Queues for processing resources and increase your processing speed and amount.


Honor bonus:    (Left of Resource) This gives you bonus in honor points when upgrading buildings as well as a random award once a day.

The lower right of the the resource will give you bonus boost while taking tiles.   In addition, there are two skills of interest.    The first skill allows you to temporarily boost the RSS you get from surrounding tiles.    The last skill allows you to increase the level of tiles you occupy.


My method is to use the immunity boost to get as many high level tiles as possible.    I switch to processing queues once I have all the tiles I can get.    This allows you to process the harvested resources quickly.     I stay on this specialty until I have a large amount of composite and virus samples.      The more buildings you can upgrade the more bonus you can get.   I try to have a minimum of 7 upgrades since this will usually get you an additional specialty point.

Finally, I reset to honor bonus on CoZ build day then activate a honor bonus ticket, CoZ Bonus Ticket, and the specialty skills.   This will give you a 290% honor bonus.    I complete as many honor building upgrades as possible while the bonus are active.    This should give points for CoZ and increase your specialty points quickly.

The honor bonus is based on the level of the building.     It isn't worth using the skill until your buildings are higher than 12.     You will get a new specialty point for roughly every 7-8 building upgrades.

Hero Experience: (Top of Resource) Another useful branch is the top of the resource branch.   This increases your hero experience and provides two skills.    One skill allows APC training at occupied tiles with no damage and the second gives you 100% resource protection during a siege which is useful for KE events.


Duel Scoring


After the duel, 20% of the losing alliance points are awarded to the winner and deducted from the loser. The points earned during the duel are added to the total points of the alliance then the rewards are calculated.    Keep in mind that earned points are converted and are not 1:1.

For Example, assume the two alliance start with the following points:

Alliance 1 (A1) : Points 100
Alliance 2 (A2) : Points 100

If A1 wins the duel the points are awarded:

A1 Points: 120
A2 Points: 80

Remember, you do not get points for any actions taken during the preparation phase of a duel which last 30 minutes after war is declared.    The battle phase will last 2 hours unless one alliance destroys all the alliance centers of the other.    It cost 10 durability to take tiles and attack buildings.

Member Scoring


Season: These are points from occupying tiles in the world.   These points are converted directly to your total score 1:1.

Declaration: This is points from occupying enemy plots and destroying buildings.  These points are converted 1:100 to your total score.

Stone Donation:   This is just points obtained by your stone donation to the alliance.   The points are converted 1:10 to your total score.


Alliance Center

 



 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


 Grid

 

The map set up around the alliance center should be in a checker board pattern extending out at least 200km in all directions using farms.  (This distance should be extended in later DD seasons.)   The main alliance should have tiles on the outside edge of the grid to make attacks on the enemy rally point easier.

The honor buildings around the alliance center should be in single rows with an empty row between. Farm accounts should be in the outside ring of the defense with the alliance defenders forming an inner ring.    The farm alliances will be used to block incoming enemy paths and force the enemy to use missiles to make a hole.       The alliance bases are the last line of defense for the alliance center.   They will block the incoming paths and garrison honor buildings as needed.

The farm alliance alliance center and buildings should be on the outside of your tile grid in a long line multiple buildings deep.    You can attack any buildings with your tiles adjacent too, but any attacks outside of a duel will cost double the durability.   This means the enemy will spend a lot of precious durability just to get through your farm alliance.


You don't want a gap anywhere near your alliance center big enough for a rally point (6 tiles).     The bigger the area you can create around your alliance center the better.    The goal is to force the enemy to rally far away from your alliance center so they use up most of their durability before getting to your alliance center.   

The bases defending your alliance center should be as close as possible to the action.    You can't use acceleration speed ups when attacking tiles or builds.    They can be used when attacking the alliance center.     Often, the winner is determined by the number of participants and travel time.     The more participants you have the more durability you have available.   



Honor Structures



The second part of the plan is to protect the alliance center if the enemy gets to the area.   An effective layout of your honor structures is to surround the launch center in rings working out from the center.  The Assault Fortress is the best building to be on the outside followed by the garrison.   Those buildings are harder to destroy than the other two.    Remember, all honor structures can be garrisoned by any alliance member.      

If you build in a corner then modify the layout to cover to the edges of the map.   Your Virus lab and processing plant are the weakest and should be at the back or well protected.  The area between the parameters should be left open.     All the other bases should be on the outside ring.   Don't forget that any base under level 19 maybe hit by missiles to clear a path for the enemy advance although it takes 30 minutes for ruins to clear.

The idea is you occupy tiles in front of the enemy path forcing them to go around.    There is a cool down period once you occupy a tile.     This can give you precious moments to take back tiles from their path to delay their advance.

Alliance Member Task

 

The most important factor is coordination of your members.    Everyone should be divided into smaller groups for specific functions.    You will want to be able to have multiple waves.   For example, Team 1 starts making a path to the enemy AC.     Team 2 will take over the task once Team 1 runs out of durability.

If there is a free-for-all you will have everyone using up their durability and wasting it on the same buildings.    It's not necessary for 20 members to attack the same honor building or one tile.

Defenders

This group will form a wall of bases around the alliance center and should be B19 or higher.    In DD, bases can not be directly attacked by an APC's but can be attacked by a missile.    If you form a solid wall of bases the enemy will not be able to take adjacent tiles because they can't attack your base.    This will force them to go around your base while constantly being harassed by the Blockers.

If the enemy gets to your honor structures then the Defenders should garrison the honor structures to prevent them from being damaged.

Blockers

Their job will be to occupy any territory in the path of the enemy occupation.   Tiles have a cool down timer after being occupied giving 5 minutes where the tiles can't be touched by anyone.    Tiles in the process of being abandoned can be attacked.   You can camp an APC on an occupied territory forcing the enemy to defeat you first.

Doing this will force the enemy to constantly go around the tiles.   This is one of the most important tactics because it runs down the enemy durability.

Guardian

This will be a small group of players who's purpose will be to attack the rally point of the enemy.   They should be near any ambush point ready to attack the rally point.    Destroying the rally point gives you a major boost in points and can stop the enemy cold.


Enemy State


Lone Wolf

At least one person should go to the enemy state with the simple goal of occupying territory.    Their job is just to occupy territory as deep as possible in the enemy state.     Every player will get enormous rewards if they fill their occupied territory in the home and enemy state.    The only chance you get to occupy a foreign state is from a rally point.    So while the attackers do their job the lone wolf must go as far as they can.    All alliance members will later use these tiles to expand their own holdings in state territory.   These tiles can also be used to sneak up on enemy alliance centers in later duels.

Attackers

This will be the group that goes to the enemy state to attack the alliance center and support buildings.   Make sure you don't weaken the defense of your own state by a majority of players going to the enemy state.  The goal is to get to the alliance center as soon as possible.    This group should be divided into two task.    The first group's goal is to destroy as many support buildings as possible. This will make up the majority of your attacking group and will confuse the enemy especially if they are not taking direct lines to the alliance center.   The second group's goal is to take the shortest path to the alliance center.

If the alliance is big and taking the alliance center is not possible then concentrate on damaging as many honor buildings as possible.     The winner is determined by the number of points accumulated which is totaled by the buildings destroyed (including their level) and territory occupied.

The exact strategy will depend on how the enemy has set up their map.  Remember, wounded troops cost to heal so avoid as much direct conflict as possible.

 

Destroyer Missile

 

Starting in season 2, you can build a destroyer missile from the alliance build menu.    You can build one every 24 hours at a cost of 100k stone.     The alliance guardian is the only one who can fire the missile from up to 500km away.     The activation of the missile is announced in state chat and takes 5 minutes to prepare.    During this time anyone in the state can attack the guardian.    If the guardian is reset (base durability at zero) then the missile is cancelled.

When the missile is hits the target area it clears everything from the map in a 5X5 area including tiles (Even if in protection), bases, zombies, and resource plots.    This is enough to place a rally point and 3 bases.     The enemy can't teleport to the area or take the tiles.

A solid strategy for the attacker is to take all the tiles between the area and honor buildings.   The rally point should be demolished as soon as this is done.      

The defenders should take all the tiles between the destroyer and their honor structures.    The tiles in the area will be cleared but the attacker won't be able to take the tiles in protection once they port in and it will allow you to immediately send DD missiles.


Legion

 

Starting in Season 3, each alliance center can have a legion.   The R5 or Overseerer (R4) can appoint a legion master for each center.    Alliance members can send their APC to the legion at any of the 4 centers by clicking on the alliance center then "Send to Legion".     The main draw back is the member must have available tiles for both states and full APC durability.    The legion master can not abandon tiles and the apc does not regenerate in the legion.   (Although the APC regenerates at the normal rate for the owner.)   The legion master can dismiss an APC from the legion which then returns to the owner.    The APC owner can teleport to other states without their APC being removed from legion.    However, they must be in the home state to send to legion.

The legion can only be used to take tiles in both states.   It can't be used to attack buildings.   The legion power is a sum of all the APC's in the legion and the speed is always constant regardless of the types of units in the APCs.   

A new building "Garrison Building" is available on the build menu in the world map for the legion master.     It can only be placed next to adjacent friendly tiles or on top of existing alliance tiles in a 3X3 area.  It takes 5 minutes to build once placed.   Members can use the Garrison building as an adjacent tile when occupying tiles.   This building can be garrisoned for defense and legions assigned to it.     It can be attacked by anyone in the state with adjacent tiles.   You can not send a legion to a garrison in another state without first sending to a rally point in that state.  Once the building is destroyed it is is remove from the map.

The legion master adds available APC to the legion then sends it to any garrison building in the home state or rally point in the other state.    Once the legion arrives at the destination, the legion master can send it to take 5 tiles.      The targeted tiles do not have to be adjacent to each other but they must be adjacent to friendly tiles.   The legion master must be in the state where the legion is located to command it or send it to a different base.

The speed is comparable to fighters.     The legion will return to base if one of the target tiles is in protection or it completes the assigned tiles.

 

Rewards


The final rewards are the best in the game and are based on your alliance rank at the end of the season.  The R5 automatically gets the leadership reward which is the most generous.     This is followed by 9 core rewards and 90 main rewards.    These 99 gifts are sent by the R5 to the alliance members.

The rewards can only be sent to members who have earned a minimum of 10,000 points.  Every member can reach the minimum points by taking tiles and upgrading honor buildings alone over the season.

Saturday, May 9, 2020

Last Shelter: Players Guide - Events

State Events

  Last Shelter Guides:

 

 State Events

 

The state events run every week for 4 weeks then a break for a week with a warm up event.  The first state wide events start in about a month beginning with the launch center battle. The exact timing of the events often changes at the developer whims.  Its important for all the alliances in the state to come together to compete against the other states. The states that don't come together for the state versus state (SVS) event will lose the events and end up missing out on a lot of free resources.


Event Schedule





The best method is to figure out which hourly event works best for you then activate a bonus ticket and work on the CoZ event.    The 3rd, 6th, and 9th CoZ event boxes provide the best rewards.    You should stop at each of those points if you don't have enough to get to the next and save your resources for the next week.   You're unlikely to make the next box if you can't max out your points in the 30 minute duration of the bonus ticket.  It's common for people to use up all their bonus tickets chasing the 3rd or 6th box.

On the "warm up" event week, there isn't an event on Monday and no kill event on the weekends.  The warm up event also doesn't give points for promoting troops on training day.

The Clash of the Zones (COZ) events start a month after SVS and require more corporation since other state players will be able to come to your state to attack on the weekends.    This requires coordination between the alliances to defend your state and attack the other.

If the state doesn't get it's act together by the dooms day (DD) event then you should start looking for a state to immigrate too or start a new game.    DD includes all the previous activities but adds additional events for tiles and war.

Completing the Zone Commemoration technology branch is the only way to do well in the state events, but researching this branch will require large amounts of courage medals.

If your alliance does well in the event then the alliance prizes will provide bonus tickets.   The 50% tickets can be combined to 100% in a 4:1 ratio.    If you time your events right you can use the ticket to maximize your score.

You can win events by saving up resources, speed ups, and items for the specific event.   Completing an hourly event provide additional speed ups.    If possible stop after maxing out the score for the hourly event and continue once another hourly event starts.



    Monday: Gathering 


    The points are earned by gathering from resource plots on the world map.   You can also earn points by purchasing diamonds and spending VIP Points.   The resources have different gathering speeds so they all earn the same amount of points.   You should get a gathering bonus from the alliance store.   Diamond gathering is extremely slow and doesn't benefit from gathering bonus so you get less points than the other 4 resources.

    There's always a chance someone will "tile hit" if you are gathering for free development.  You should gather at least 100K away from your base and away from any other bases.  

    Tuesday: Building


    Points are earned by upgrading buildings, purchasing diamonds, crafting APC parts, or consuming energy cores.  You get points for every level you upgrade.   For example, upgrading a building from level 5 to 6 will give you 6X the points in the event.   It is best to plan major upgrades to finish after the event starts (Like your base) then complete smaller ones during the event.  Don't focus on upgrading warehouses if you are above level 10 since you get less points due to the level.

    Wednesday: Research


    This event points are earned by researching technology or purchasing diamonds. The points are also awarded based on the location in the tree and level.   Again, start research before the event starts so that it will finish after the event starts.

    Thursday: Hero Development


    This event points are from gaining hero experience, Exchanging/Spending Wisdom Medals, Unlocking Skills, Using Recruitment Tickets, and killing zombies on the world map.   Start the event by using your recruitment tickets then split and exchange all the green heros.     You can split blue and purple heros you don't need.  Don't exchange the medals for purple or blue because you will need these to unlock hero skills.

    It is possible to use hero splitting to maximize your rewards.   This usually involves a green or blue hero.  First, you upgrade the first skill to max then split the hero.     You will lose about 20% of your wisdom medals and money with each split.  It usually takes 3-4 heros to obtain the third box.   Don't use this method because wisdom medals are more valuable than rewards you get.  It is better to use your wisdom medals to upgrade hero skills.

    This is the best event for your farm alliance to boost your state score.

    Friday: Training


    The event points are from training, promoting, or enhancing troops.   The higher the level units and count the faster you will earn points.   You get more points from training new troops than promoting or enhancing.

    During COZ, it's ok to to train vast amounts of troops.    Eventually, their consumption will outpace your ability to keep the ration truck full.   This is not a big problem but it will impact your cash generation ability.   The major goal is most of these troops will be killed during the kill event which will balance your base.

    You can get a jump on the event by training units the day before and not collecting them till the start of the training event with an active COZ bonus.

    Saturday: Kill Event


    The kill event is the most dreaded and expensive event.    You should only attack lower level bases to minimize your casualties and watch out for bigger players.   If you have good technology then you can attack bases with the same level as you.   Points are given from units level and number killed whether they die as a result of an attack or defense.

    You will lose more than you gain if you end up healing the majority of your units.  This is also true of "Camp hitting".  Sometimes other alliance members will offer to trade hits on camps to complete the event.    This will end up being more costly than gains from the rewards.

    The event requirements are high and you will need a large supply of transports to find enemies.  Before the event starts, stock up on advanced/random transports, shields, attack/defense bonus, and anti-scouts.  You should also start as many upgrades, research, and refill buildings before you start to minimize losses if you are attacked.

    Transport to the mud (brown) around the launch center to drop your shield without the cool down if you are shielded.  Find a location to put your base with the most obstacles around it to minimize an enemy from transporting adjacent to your base.    If you see the flash of a base transport you should immediately transport 15-30k away to avoid being hit.

    Keep an eye on the state chat and news flashes for your name.   Some will attack those who appear in the news feed or shared coordinates.    The best strategy is to send all your APC to attack once you port in then use a random or advance teleport to move to another spot.   The random teleport can't be used if you have APC or scouts out.   It also can't be used if your base is currently under attack.

    Be extra cautious when you see a small base attacking.    People use their farms as bait and they attack unshielded bases.   Many will port in to attack the smaller base thinking it will be easy points then suddenly you have a B25 next to you after your APCs return from the first hit.   One of the signs of this is the small base will not run when you port next to them.     You can use an advance teleport while your APCs are out of your base so if they stick around then it's probably a trap.

    Dodging Attacks

    You can dodge an enemy attack by transporting your base to another location.    Always watch state chat for someone sharing your cords and spaces around your base where someone might transport.   When your position is compromised then quickly move at least 30k away and transport your base to that space.    You're APCs will be recalled and transported with your base.    You can only use an advance teleport to do this.    A random teleport can not be used when you are scouting, being attacked, or attacking someone.    Your destination could be a bookmark, back home, or just a random spot away from the attacker.

    If the attacking base is similar in power then optionally transport to a different tile next to their base and launch a fresh attack against them.   The goal is to hit them while all their troops are out.

    Try to find locations where there is no space for someone to port next to you when looking for a place to attack.     The farther away they are the more warning you will have of their attack.    It's nearly impossible to dodge an attack when they are right next to your base.

    Baiting

    You can use a farm account as bait.    Attack bases and wait for their members to port in.    Then you port in with your main base and attack them.      This is very effective as a farm probably won't attract the large base 25's.   It's a little hard to accomplish because it requires good timing.     You need to port in just as their troops are turning so they will be in the base as your APC reach their base.

    You can also use your main base as bait.    First, port into a large hive and attack all the bases around you with your two weakest APC.    Eventually someone will port in next to you to defend the hive.   At that point, you're largest APCs will still be in your base to defend.     Once their APCs are returning then you can launch a counter attack.   This is a risky move because the attacker could have more powerful APC than you.

    Sunday: Free Development 


    This allows you to select a repeat of the previous events.   I usually opt for gathering but this can be dangerous when the kill events are going on.   You should select which ever will benefit you the most.


    Bad Kill Event Strategies

     

    One common strategies is a "purge" prior to the kill event.    This is bad for moral and team cohesion even if ordered by the state president.  (Bad for power ranking too)     Think of a player who has spent the last month helping build the alliance.     A command to shield is given but due to life events, lack of diamond, etc they do not shield.    If they are kicked (and often zero'd by their own alliance) they will log in feeling betrayed and a grudge towards the alliance.    Their friends will see or even participate in the attack which makes the betrayal worse and leaving everyone wondering who will be next.  They usually join a different alliance afterwards.   Remember, people put in a lot of time and money into this game so everything in the game becomes a personal attack.  The one doing the purge will also have great expenses in diamonds and advanced transports which means less for the kill event.    They will also pay a lot in units and resources if they are not several levels above the one being purged.    Why do you have low level players in your alliance anyway?   The purge isn't even done during the kill event where it would provide points for your state.

    In my first state, the president decreed that every alliance kick and purge members who didn't shield on Thursday before KE. (24 hours before the event)   The president would zero alliances who didn't comply with the order.    Under this threat, I participated in the purge of my alliance.     It was extremely costly to our members and prevented us from participating in KE.    After the purge, the victims of the purge felt betrayed.  Some quit the game or joined other alliances even though those alliances also performed the purge.    Our alliance had a drastic drop in rank and were unable to participate in KE.   All it accomplished was firmly setting the top 3 alliances in their rank since we all did their dirty work for them.   The top 3 benefited from the purge because they all were more advanced.

    In the end, the many of the alliances began to collaborate with enemy states to destroy the president's alliance.   It was entertaining to watch but we lost every event afterwards from a combination of collaboration, quits, or boycott.

    The state became a ghost town from the number of people who quit or immigrated out.  Even after a year, the state is still mostly empty.   I eventually immigrated my base to my second state.   When I left, there was only one partial alliance left who lost every event.

    I started over in another state.   Again, the new president's alliance ran a purge prior to KE.   Like before, this destroyed the moral of the state.    Most alliances couldn't or refused to participate in events afterwards.   I eventually quit the game as well.    I came back after an 8 month hiatus hoping the game had been balanced by the developers.  There have been some improvements but the game is still pay-to-win.

    It should be common sense but I have seen these strategies used in every state I've played.    The opposition is always silenced and the strategies are implemented.   These failed strategies are stopped after the massive losses are realized; often too late.


    The reason why a purge doesn't work is because you would have to kill 100% of their units to prevent the enemy from getting points from attacks.   The purge may put most of their troops in the hospital but it still leaves plenty available for points.     Even if all the troops are in the hospital, an attack will gain points until all the units are dead.    It also depletes the resources of everyone making the state weaker. Bases are often zero'd because people are trying to maximize their points.   During KE, unprotected bases get hit repeatedly after their durability recovers.

    Most enemy points are from people who participate in KE and get hit by a bigger player.    Everyone who has done a KE has attacked a hive when a Base 25 ports next to them and wipes out all their units.    It's simple math.    An inactive B16 with 30K T5's won't give as many points as an over confident B19 with 100K T7 units and gets zerod 4 times by bigger players.     The majority of state points are not lost to unshielded bases.    The way to win KE is to attack bases where there's no question of victory and never being hit by someone bigger than you.  In my experience, people who don't shield for a kill event are usually not very active with under developed bases.

    The purge is always justified by saying it's "free points" for the enemy.   If you lose a KE event then the other state was either more powerful or your strategy was horrible.  Everything else is an excuse to avoid blame for the loss.    These events require coordination and team work.

    Good Kill Event Strategies


    Some players should stay in your state and defend other members.  This should be the biggest members.   You could even leave some members or farms unprotected as bait.  

    In all the KE events I participated in the most effective defensive strategies was where any attack  resulted in the location being shared on state chat.    A large base would transport next to the attacker and wipe out the base.    The only counter move is to quickly port somewhere else the moment you see the transport.

    Some say that sharing coordinates on state chat announces free points to the enemy.    How valuable is a base to the enemy that has been attacked multiple times?  Wasn't the purge supposed to eliminate those free points?

    The fact is that the enemy has been searching your state for the past week bookmarking every hive and solitary base.    The enemy will start hitting remote bases in all corners of the map after the first 12 hours of the event when most hives have been depleted.    I have personally spent hours searching over the map looking for bases to finish out my rewards.

    There should be two teams.     The offense team goes to the enemy state to attack.  The defensive team stays in the home state and should be ready to teleport anywhere in the state where the enemy is attacking.    Everyone else is further divided into two groups.   The first group announces locations of enemies in the home state in the state/alliance chat.   The second group should watch the enemy state and announce locations of targets in the enemy state.      The most important is someone should be responsible for coordinating across the alliances through an outside app like Line or discord.

    Another good strategy, is for everyone to wait in their home state and attack any enemies who port in.    This will deplete the enemy of durability, resources, and units.   When the attacks slow down then most players go to the enemy state to wage war.    This was actually used against a state I was in.    We all thought the state was inactive because no one was porting to our state.   Nearly everyone went to the enemy state for the free resources only to find they were active and waiting for us.     

    SVS

     

    It's best to have a rotating presidency between the alliances so the rewards are shared between everyone and a counsel to make rules for the state.    Sharing power means more alliances are likely to participate in events and reduces the burden for everyone.    The president should also give out the support packages to players who are active not just the biggest bases.

    Every state always seems end up with a dictator with every perk going to the ruling class.  The president always gives the perks (buffs) to their friends and/or the biggest players.  The president can also give (debuffs) which give a penalty to the players for a week.   
     

    Launch Center Battle


    The kill event opens with the launch center battle.   The area surrounding the launch center forces the APCs to move extremely slow and APC casualties simply die instead of going to the hospital. The biggest players are usually closest to the launch center.    The shield will drop on anyone who ports to the mud.  

    The enemy state can occupy your launch center when the CoZ event starts which means your state will not have the perks of the presidency or national quest.   They can also assign the debuffs to players in your state.

    The battle for the launch center outcome is mainly decided by APC power.    Some states will try to use farms to fill the mud area around the launch center.    The problem is these bases can be hit with missiles or zerod.    Under powered players will also quickly be zerod or run from the bigger players.  This opens gaps in the defense for enemy bases to port in.    The grid then becomes a liability for your defense to attack the enemy base.

    The best defense is for players to garrison the launch center while their alliance members on the green shield and reinforce those players.   

    Appointed Officials


    After the Launch Center battle, the winning alliance will appoint officials to eight positions.   The positions have different buffs and are associated with different departments of the national quest.    Appointed positions can't send an APC to work the national quest instead they get national quest experience from other state members working at their building.     Your experience gains is based on how many work at your building.

    Each appointed position should place cards at their building as soon as the new work day starts.  The cards are to attract players to your building. 

    The first two cards are placed from your personal cards for free.    Two additional cards can be placed by opening the card he wolf pendant.    These can be purchased from the stored with diamonds.    Each pendant cost 500 diamonds.     The first card will cost 1 pendant and the second card cost 3 pendants.     Officers will spend 2000 diamonds each day of the week.

    COZ Strategy

     

    The SVS strategy applies to COZ with the addition of cross state attacks.     Anyone who is not participating in the kill events should shield for the duration of the event.   Most presidents will negotiate some basic rules for the kill event such as no hitting gathering apcs or farms, but you shouldn't count on this.   Keep in mind that the enemy can see conversations in the state chat.   Newbies will try to flood state chat with meaningless chatter to prevent communication.

    The kill event begins 30 minutes after the launch center.   This is where players can teleport to the other state to attack the others launch center.        A "Ghost base" is left in your home state when you teleport to the enemy.    This base can be hit by missles.